So onto my third pair. I have been working
on a trouser pattern concept, to allow fitting of a range of sizes/body shapes,
without creating either a block first, or working backwards form and existing
pattern. It is still very much in the testing stage, and I have started with
myself, given that my figure is super hard to fit for pants. Even harder as I
am mostly trying to do it on my own! So far, it is working, and I am now going
to test it on some of my super helpful students.
Here are pics of the calico toile:
Made into simple trousers:
I decided to add welt pockets for some back detail:
And adapted into a jeans style, using only
the pattern shapes, rather than jeans fit:
Here are some detail pics of the construction:
I have been admiring wide leg pants in
denim, so I thought this foundation pattern would translate well. I am not sure
they are so flattering in the straight leg, but they are comfortable. I would
change the shaped waistband, it fits very snugly, but again, emphasizes the
waist/hip disparity. It is very hard to fit trousers to yourself, and now I have looked at the pictures, I can see there needs to be a diagonal dart alteration through the back.
The denim is lovely and soft, but more suited to boyfriend
style jeans. For my next projects I have a lovely Tencel I think would work
better in this style, and for regular jeans I have a dark stretch wool/cotton
which I can’t wait to try. It has minimal stretch, so I have made another
pattern to account for the ease, and I hope it works.
Overall, the Angela Wolf course was very
good, the videos were very clear, and she has great technique. But to get a
professional finish, it comes down to the pattern, and the only way to get the
fit is to test using the actual fabric. I am very impressed with the Craftsy
courses, I like that you can access the videos at anytime, and they don’t seem
to expire, unlike the Burda courses. And they are so much cheaper! I think I’ll
be back for more!
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