The corset construction adventure continues! This week we continued the duct tape experiments and trialed the pattern pieces by making toiles. I have added a new model to the mix, as I wanted to see how the 3D pattern making will go with a large bust (E cup). So now I think I have a good range of shapes to work with to test this method.

For model #3, I had a system going that I think works:

• Use the cloth duct tape
• Use a singlet with minimal stretch
• Tape the singlet at the hem to prevent riding up
• Start under the bust and work down to the hem
• Use shorter lengths
• Shape the bust last

I was only able to buy the black tape, so I made a final layer in coloured packaging tape so I could draw my style lines, but I think this turned out to be a good thing as the whole cast was very stable, easy to cut off, and held its shape when transferred into pattern shapes.

So here are models #2 and #3 as preliminary patterns:

And Model #1 about to cut hers up:

Model #2 came wearing a corset that fit her quite well, so in the interest of the experiment I took a pattern and toiled that too as I want to see if the made to measure shapes

• Fit better, or
• Not

We made the toiles using the steel busks that will go in the final design to ensure the front shaping was desirable and also for support (it will be removed when we are happy with the fit). Model #2 about to cut out her toile (I love the groovy corset with a little cardy and matching pearls! Who says corsets aren't for day wear?!)

At this stage we have not boned the corset, only top stitched the seams for support. If the boning is sewn in, it is hard to adjust the seams, but once we are happy, we will use Rigilene for light support. This week we will make removable eyelet tape so the corset can be laced for an accurate shape and ensure the lacing is parallel.

Part of the fun is choosing the out material, so a shopping excursion will be in order to see the exotic fabrics that Sheree from Love in Tokyo is now selling!

Here is a pic of Model #2 trying on one of my prototypes :)

I am always on the lookout for dress form ideas, there are some simple ways to make them, but they don’t always look great. If you are in the design world, then aesthetics are pretty important. I just read a great article on Foundations Revealed on DIY dress forms, link here, and it is good to see that others face the same conundrums.

I have also been wanting to make half scale dress forms more accessible. I bought a beautiful one from America, but the postage was excessive, costing more than the mannequin itself.  Initially I made a mould using plaster bandages, but I quickly realized this wouldn’t work: the bandages added bulk, so it was no longer a true size, and it was really hard to get off (my mannequin is getting quite battered). I then made casts using the paper tape method, which were very successful and look great, but took ages, so are not really viable as a product. Recently I had a go at using the duct tape method to make a pattern, which was ok, but the form mostly looks like a shapely cushion! The experiments will continue…

ps. I just found this post about making a cast, I might try this later

Corset Building - the adventure continues!

Following more research on the 3D pattern making, I thought I had it sussed. Silver duct tape seemed the go, so at my next class we tried it out. Disaster! Here is what learnt:

1. The tape you use really matters! The silver duct tape I used was not the cloth type, and rolled when it was wrapped around the body, causing bulges that weren’t there to start with, and totally flattened the bust.

2. The singlet you use really matters!

I used a super stretchy singlet, and when I cut off the mold, it sprang back on itself causing the tape to wrinkle, just adding to the dreadful puckering that had already happened. The other issue was that because it had squished into the body, when it was taken off, the pieces were longer than they should be.

But I thought it was the tape causing the problem so we tried again, this time using masking tape, which again, didn’t stick, so I topped it with the duct tape. This method worked better, with the masking tape creating a firm base, and the duct tape holding it all together.

I drew the style lines onto the body and cut the mold off. The singlet still caused quite a lot of contraction (yes, I used the same style of singlet! I had a few I was chucking out, and the reason I was getting rid of them was that they were too stretchy. Lesson learnt!). But I was able to salvage the mold. I cut the shapes and then pealed off the singlet layer and stuck the tape shapes onto paper. I was then able to cut them out and trace around them to make the pattern pieces.

At this point we were getting frustrated, so we got some more duct tape, this time the cloth style, and green, so we could draw on it, which costs quite a bit more, but importantly, does the job. I also used a much less stretchy singlet and the result was great, the mold came off like a dream, and it is ready to be used. Once it is cut up, I will compare the two versions of pattern pieces to see if it makes a difference.

Having worked out what undergarment and duct tape to use, the last lesson was how you attach the duct tape. My initial instinct was to start at the waist, to cinch it in. After some practice, I think the best way is to start under the bust, which is a firm area, and work down. Leave the bust area until last and create a nice shape that does not flatten.

Next, testing the pattern!

Corset Building - Construction

Construction

The next stage was sourcing the materials. Everyone says Coutil is the best, but I couldn’t find any in Perth. Apparently the next best is to use drill, which is easily available, and I thought would be better than calico. I used eBay for spiral boning, busks and lacing.

Making the corset was easy for me, I have years of experience sewing bridal wear, and I really enjoyed the process. I made it from two layers of drill, with a waist tape. I wasn’t too sure about attaching the waist tape on a single layer corset, and I am not happy with the final result in terms of strength but I like how it looks. Since then, each time I make one, the process changes a bit.

Even though it was a toile, I couldn’t help adding some lace and finishing it off, and then it was time for the grommets.

I spaced the grommets 3cm apart, because that seemed to fit nicely into the back measurement. I used an awl to make the holes, which was nearly impossible and in the end I resorted to punching holes. Using an awl separates the fibers but doesn’t break them, but it wasn’t happening for me! I used my new grommet press, which worked a treat and saved my wrists. That was a good investment!

Fitting

When I next saw my student, I tried it on her and… it fitted like a glove! Wow! What an easy process! I wasn't happy with the shape of the front, I had cut it straight (for modesty) but from the side angle it gaped a bit. If I make it again I will make the front a sweetheart shape to solve that issue. Even though it was made to fit the model shown,  the actual shape fit the younger girls really well, even though it wasn’t made for them, which I found really interesting.

I have now observed that a lot of ‘Victorian’ style corset shave sweetheart necklines, so it could be that it is function and aesthetics at work.

I set to and made another, based on a corset I had been given, as I wanted to compare the shapes of a commercial pattern, a commercial corset (that I knew fitted well) and the 3D method.

I tried it on my daughter who has a gorgeous figure perfectly suited to corsets, and it really didn’t cover her bust sufficiently, although it was very close to the original (left pic, original not shown). I have subsequently altered the pattern a lot, so it is no longer anything like the original, so my conclusion is that the 3D method allows an individual approach to the design that is easy to achieve for the home sewer.

Corset Building - The Beginning

The Beginning

I did a lot of research, I have the books, the commercial patterns for reference and sizing, and I have trawled the internet, and I found a great site: FoundationsRevealed, that has been super helpful, but I still had to find my own way.

The biggest issue I have found both from making made-to-measure and teaching, is that bodies differ. I hear a lot of fussing about sizing, and how it should be standardized, and it just makes me want to get on my soapbox and deliver my spiel!

Every body is different. I have worked with catwalk models, who are all so slim, and yet, even thought they are the same size in theory, they are different shapes. Curvy, straight up and down, wide from the front but disappear when they turn sideways, to little tummies and sway backs. As such, they all need to be fitted, particularly when the garments are tight, to look good. This is true for regular girls and women too, which is why I found made to measure the easiest way to deal with sizing. So I would make a block, fit it to the person, and work from there. There are some great pattern making books that deal with contouring to the body, and a lovely fit can be achieved.

But with corsets, not only is there no ease, the shape of the body is also being altered, even if it is only subtly. How do you pattern make for that?!

Pattern Making for Corsets

As I see it, you have four options:

• Use a commercial pattern, adapt it until is fits well. This method appears to be easy, but ends up being time consuming.
• Draft your own, if you know how. But you still have a lot of tweaking to get the shape right, particularly if you haven’t worked with corset shapes before. 
• Get a lovely ready made corset and take a pattern, again, not so easy, and morally dubious.

And the one I like best:

• Use the 3D method found on Foundations Revealed and also the principle for making your own mannequin.

There is quite a lot of information about how to make your own dress form, with most suggesting using duct tape. It is my opinion that tape, the naming of tape, and the properties of tape, and the cost vary hugely! What I want to share first is my trials with tape.

I was so excited about this method that I leapt right in, using what I had, which was masking tape and duct tape of the ‘cloth’ kind in black.

I used one of my brave students as a model and set to. I gave her a singlet and because I only had a small amount of duct tape, I used masking tape first. Problem 1: masking tape tears easily so I couldn’t wrap her too tightly, and problem 2: the masking tape lifted off the fabric. I used what I had of the duct tape to reinforce the mold, which worked well, but I didn’t have enough to cover her.

But I was happy with the results, and was all set to mark the seam lines. Except I had used black duct tape. Bugger. So I just cut the shapes, which was fine, but I made a mental not to self: don’t use black tape!

Next I lay them on paper and traced around them, which worked well. I tidied up the shapes to make smooth lines and trued up the seams, and they looked pretty good. I was really impressed with this method, which is something, as I am old school when it comes to pattern making!