The corset construction adventure continues! This week we continued the duct tape experiments and trialed the pattern pieces by making toiles. I have added a new model to the mix, as I wanted to see how the 3D pattern making will go with a large bust (E cup). So now I think I have a good range of shapes to work with to test this method.

For model #3, I had a system going that I think works:

• Use the cloth duct tape
• Use a singlet with minimal stretch
• Tape the singlet at the hem to prevent riding up
• Start under the bust and work down to the hem
• Use shorter lengths
• Shape the bust last

I was only able to buy the black tape, so I made a final layer in coloured packaging tape so I could draw my style lines, but I think this turned out to be a good thing as the whole cast was very stable, easy to cut off, and held its shape when transferred into pattern shapes.

So here are models #2 and #3 as preliminary patterns:

And Model #1 about to cut hers up:

Model #2 came wearing a corset that fit her quite well, so in the interest of the experiment I took a pattern and toiled that too as I want to see if the made to measure shapes

• Fit better, or
• Not

We made the toiles using the steel busks that will go in the final design to ensure the front shaping was desirable and also for support (it will be removed when we are happy with the fit). Model #2 about to cut out her toile (I love the groovy corset with a little cardy and matching pearls! Who says corsets aren't for day wear?!)

At this stage we have not boned the corset, only top stitched the seams for support. If the boning is sewn in, it is hard to adjust the seams, but once we are happy, we will use Rigilene for light support. This week we will make removable eyelet tape so the corset can be laced for an accurate shape and ensure the lacing is parallel.

Part of the fun is choosing the out material, so a shopping excursion will be in order to see the exotic fabrics that Sheree from Love in Tokyo is now selling!

Here is a pic of Model #2 trying on one of my prototypes :)

I am always on the lookout for dress form ideas, there are some simple ways to make them, but they don’t always look great. If you are in the design world, then aesthetics are pretty important. I just read a great article on Foundations Revealed on DIY dress forms, link here, and it is good to see that others face the same conundrums.

I have also been wanting to make half scale dress forms more accessible. I bought a beautiful one from America, but the postage was excessive, costing more than the mannequin itself.  Initially I made a mould using plaster bandages, but I quickly realized this wouldn’t work: the bandages added bulk, so it was no longer a true size, and it was really hard to get off (my mannequin is getting quite battered). I then made casts using the paper tape method, which were very successful and look great, but took ages, so are not really viable as a product. Recently I had a go at using the duct tape method to make a pattern, which was ok, but the form mostly looks like a shapely cushion! The experiments will continue…

ps. I just found this post about making a cast, I might try this later