Corset Building - the adventure continues!

Following more research on the 3D pattern making, I thought I had it sussed. Silver duct tape seemed the go, so at my next class we tried it out. Disaster! Here is what learnt:

1. The tape you use really matters! The silver duct tape I used was not the cloth type, and rolled when it was wrapped around the body, causing bulges that weren’t there to start with, and totally flattened the bust.

2. The singlet you use really matters!

I used a super stretchy singlet, and when I cut off the mold, it sprang back on itself causing the tape to wrinkle, just adding to the dreadful puckering that had already happened. The other issue was that because it had squished into the body, when it was taken off, the pieces were longer than they should be.

But I thought it was the tape causing the problem so we tried again, this time using masking tape, which again, didn’t stick, so I topped it with the duct tape. This method worked better, with the masking tape creating a firm base, and the duct tape holding it all together.

I drew the style lines onto the body and cut the mold off. The singlet still caused quite a lot of contraction (yes, I used the same style of singlet! I had a few I was chucking out, and the reason I was getting rid of them was that they were too stretchy. Lesson learnt!). But I was able to salvage the mold. I cut the shapes and then pealed off the singlet layer and stuck the tape shapes onto paper. I was then able to cut them out and trace around them to make the pattern pieces.

At this point we were getting frustrated, so we got some more duct tape, this time the cloth style, and green, so we could draw on it, which costs quite a bit more, but importantly, does the job. I also used a much less stretchy singlet and the result was great, the mold came off like a dream, and it is ready to be used. Once it is cut up, I will compare the two versions of pattern pieces to see if it makes a difference.

Having worked out what undergarment and duct tape to use, the last lesson was how you attach the duct tape. My initial instinct was to start at the waist, to cinch it in. After some practice, I think the best way is to start under the bust, which is a firm area, and work down. Leave the bust area until last and create a nice shape that does not flatten.

Next, testing the pattern!

Corset Building - Construction

Construction

The next stage was sourcing the materials. Everyone says Coutil is the best, but I couldn’t find any in Perth. Apparently the next best is to use drill, which is easily available, and I thought would be better than calico. I used eBay for spiral boning, busks and lacing.

Making the corset was easy for me, I have years of experience sewing bridal wear, and I really enjoyed the process. I made it from two layers of drill, with a waist tape. I wasn’t too sure about attaching the waist tape on a single layer corset, and I am not happy with the final result in terms of strength but I like how it looks. Since then, each time I make one, the process changes a bit.

Even though it was a toile, I couldn’t help adding some lace and finishing it off, and then it was time for the grommets.

I spaced the grommets 3cm apart, because that seemed to fit nicely into the back measurement. I used an awl to make the holes, which was nearly impossible and in the end I resorted to punching holes. Using an awl separates the fibers but doesn’t break them, but it wasn’t happening for me! I used my new grommet press, which worked a treat and saved my wrists. That was a good investment!

Fitting

When I next saw my student, I tried it on her and… it fitted like a glove! Wow! What an easy process! I wasn't happy with the shape of the front, I had cut it straight (for modesty) but from the side angle it gaped a bit. If I make it again I will make the front a sweetheart shape to solve that issue. Even though it was made to fit the model shown,  the actual shape fit the younger girls really well, even though it wasn’t made for them, which I found really interesting.

I have now observed that a lot of ‘Victorian’ style corset shave sweetheart necklines, so it could be that it is function and aesthetics at work.

I set to and made another, based on a corset I had been given, as I wanted to compare the shapes of a commercial pattern, a commercial corset (that I knew fitted well) and the 3D method.

I tried it on my daughter who has a gorgeous figure perfectly suited to corsets, and it really didn’t cover her bust sufficiently, although it was very close to the original (left pic, original not shown). I have subsequently altered the pattern a lot, so it is no longer anything like the original, so my conclusion is that the 3D method allows an individual approach to the design that is easy to achieve for the home sewer.

Corset Building - The Beginning

The Beginning

I did a lot of research, I have the books, the commercial patterns for reference and sizing, and I have trawled the internet, and I found a great site: FoundationsRevealed, that has been super helpful, but I still had to find my own way.

The biggest issue I have found both from making made-to-measure and teaching, is that bodies differ. I hear a lot of fussing about sizing, and how it should be standardized, and it just makes me want to get on my soapbox and deliver my spiel!

Every body is different. I have worked with catwalk models, who are all so slim, and yet, even thought they are the same size in theory, they are different shapes. Curvy, straight up and down, wide from the front but disappear when they turn sideways, to little tummies and sway backs. As such, they all need to be fitted, particularly when the garments are tight, to look good. This is true for regular girls and women too, which is why I found made to measure the easiest way to deal with sizing. So I would make a block, fit it to the person, and work from there. There are some great pattern making books that deal with contouring to the body, and a lovely fit can be achieved.

But with corsets, not only is there no ease, the shape of the body is also being altered, even if it is only subtly. How do you pattern make for that?!

Pattern Making for Corsets

As I see it, you have four options:

• Use a commercial pattern, adapt it until is fits well. This method appears to be easy, but ends up being time consuming.
• Draft your own, if you know how. But you still have a lot of tweaking to get the shape right, particularly if you haven’t worked with corset shapes before. 
• Get a lovely ready made corset and take a pattern, again, not so easy, and morally dubious.

And the one I like best:

• Use the 3D method found on Foundations Revealed and also the principle for making your own mannequin.

There is quite a lot of information about how to make your own dress form, with most suggesting using duct tape. It is my opinion that tape, the naming of tape, and the properties of tape, and the cost vary hugely! What I want to share first is my trials with tape.

I was so excited about this method that I leapt right in, using what I had, which was masking tape and duct tape of the ‘cloth’ kind in black.

I used one of my brave students as a model and set to. I gave her a singlet and because I only had a small amount of duct tape, I used masking tape first. Problem 1: masking tape tears easily so I couldn’t wrap her too tightly, and problem 2: the masking tape lifted off the fabric. I used what I had of the duct tape to reinforce the mold, which worked well, but I didn’t have enough to cover her.

But I was happy with the results, and was all set to mark the seam lines. Except I had used black duct tape. Bugger. So I just cut the shapes, which was fine, but I made a mental not to self: don’t use black tape!

Next I lay them on paper and traced around them, which worked well. I tidied up the shapes to make smooth lines and trued up the seams, and they looked pretty good. I was really impressed with this method, which is something, as I am old school when it comes to pattern making!

Corset Building - Introduction

I love corsets, and over the years I have made quite a few, but my focus has always been on comfort, to the extent that I sometimes didn’t even use boning, so technically, not really a corset at all, just corset shaped.

When I got married, this was the underlying principal of my design: I wanted the look but not the structure. In hindsight I can see that a youthful figure can get away with quite a lot, and as we age bodies soften even if they stay slim, so a bit of boning will go a long way!

The first thing I noticed when I started making evening wear, was how uncomfortable (even painful!) boning could be. And maybe that is why I steered away from using it too much. The more I did, the more I learnt, and finding that there were different types of boning was a revelation. I love the plastic fishbone for light support, but it isn’t very flexible, and will bend out of shape when worn, which is heartbreaking when you have put hours into making a corset.

Then I discovered spiral boning. Wow, I love this stuff! Not only is it flexible, but I love how it looks too. I have been using the spiral boning for a while, initially buying it by the meter, but then struggling with the tipping. Buying the tipped lengths is handy, but doesn’t allow for changes in the pattern. Now I use both, my solution to the tipping issue is to use my glue gun, which I couldn’t live without (more on that later).

Now I am getting really serious about corset construction, or building, as the pros say. With serious corsets comes tighter lacing, and immediately problems arise with the spiral boning as it is too lightweight. Steel is essential for strength, so now I use a combination of both.

You only know how corsets are going to perform when they are worn, and they need to be put through their paces. Some of my young students were happy to help out, trying on my samples, and lacing them super tight. I knew I couldn’t be precious with them, so when the eyelets started tearing out of the fabric I didn’t feel sad, I embraced it as another one of those learning curves that are sent to test our resolve. Lesson learnt: don’t space eyelets over 2cm apart, and reinforce the grommet panel!

So I want to share my journey of corset making, and hopefully help others on the way. I teach Corset Making, and while I do not consider myself an expert, or my corsets suitable for waist training, they are a fun introduction to the pattern making and construction that are a starting point. I like to use materials that are accessible and make the process fun and achievable. Up next, The Beginning!

Sarah

Welcome to my Blog!

Hey there! So I have decided to start blogging, and to start off I want to tell you all about my Facebook competition: signup to our newsletter to win a gorgeous Liberty ring pincushion! This pincushion is filled with hand carded raw wool, to keep your pins super sharp. It also comes with three beautiful hand made glass head pins that complete the vintage feel.

Click on the link to go to the Workspace Fashion and Design School Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/WorkspaceFashionAndDesignSchool?ref_type=bookmark

Like the page and click on Subscribe to Newsletter and go in the running. Winners will be drawn 18.08.2014.

Good luck and check in for updates and news from the Workspace studios,

xx Sarah Pondevie