Corset Building - Introduction

I love corsets, and over the years I have made quite a few, but my focus has always been on comfort, to the extent that I sometimes didn’t even use boning, so technically, not really a corset at all, just corset shaped.

When I got married, this was the underlying principal of my design: I wanted the look but not the structure. In hindsight I can see that a youthful figure can get away with quite a lot, and as we age bodies soften even if they stay slim, so a bit of boning will go a long way!

The first thing I noticed when I started making evening wear, was how uncomfortable (even painful!) boning could be. And maybe that is why I steered away from using it too much. The more I did, the more I learnt, and finding that there were different types of boning was a revelation. I love the plastic fishbone for light support, but it isn’t very flexible, and will bend out of shape when worn, which is heartbreaking when you have put hours into making a corset.

Then I discovered spiral boning. Wow, I love this stuff! Not only is it flexible, but I love how it looks too. I have been using the spiral boning for a while, initially buying it by the meter, but then struggling with the tipping. Buying the tipped lengths is handy, but doesn’t allow for changes in the pattern. Now I use both, my solution to the tipping issue is to use my glue gun, which I couldn’t live without (more on that later).

Now I am getting really serious about corset construction, or building, as the pros say. With serious corsets comes tighter lacing, and immediately problems arise with the spiral boning as it is too lightweight. Steel is essential for strength, so now I use a combination of both.

You only know how corsets are going to perform when they are worn, and they need to be put through their paces. Some of my young students were happy to help out, trying on my samples, and lacing them super tight. I knew I couldn’t be precious with them, so when the eyelets started tearing out of the fabric I didn’t feel sad, I embraced it as another one of those learning curves that are sent to test our resolve. Lesson learnt: don’t space eyelets over 2cm apart, and reinforce the grommet panel!

So I want to share my journey of corset making, and hopefully help others on the way. I teach Corset Making, and while I do not consider myself an expert, or my corsets suitable for waist training, they are a fun introduction to the pattern making and construction that are a starting point. I like to use materials that are accessible and make the process fun and achievable. Up next, The Beginning!

Sarah