Saturday, August 29, 2015

Craftsy: Sewing designer jeans with Angela Wolf - Part 4

So onto my third pair. I have been working on a trouser pattern concept, to allow fitting of a range of sizes/body shapes, without creating either a block first, or working backwards form and existing pattern. It is still very much in the testing stage, and I have started with myself, given that my figure is super hard to fit for pants. Even harder as I am mostly trying to do it on my own! So far, it is working, and I am now going to test it on some of my super helpful students.

Here are pics of the calico toile:




Made into simple trousers:


I decided to add welt pockets for some back detail:



And adapted into a jeans style, using only the pattern shapes, rather than jeans fit:




Here are some detail pics of the construction:

 Liberty pockets again!

I have been admiring wide leg pants in denim, so I thought this foundation pattern would translate well. I am not sure they are so flattering in the straight leg, but they are comfortable. I would change the shaped waistband, it fits very snugly, but again, emphasizes the waist/hip disparity. It is very hard to fit trousers to yourself, and now I have looked at the pictures, I can see there needs to be a diagonal dart alteration through the back.

The denim is lovely and soft, but more suited to boyfriend style jeans. For my next projects I have a lovely Tencel I think would work better in this style, and for regular jeans I have a dark stretch wool/cotton which I can’t wait to try. It has minimal stretch, so I have made another pattern to account for the ease, and I hope it works.


Overall, the Angela Wolf course was very good, the videos were very clear, and she has great technique. But to get a professional finish, it comes down to the pattern, and the only way to get the fit is to test using the actual fabric. I am very impressed with the Craftsy courses, I like that you can access the videos at anytime, and they don’t seem to expire, unlike the Burda courses. And they are so much cheaper! I think I’ll be back for more!

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