Day 2:
Because I like a sweetheart shape at the front, I reinforce
the busk with steel boning. This also serves to secure the waist tape neatly,
and avoids bulk when I insert the busk; and if the colour doesn’t match the
outer, it doesn’t matter as it doesn’t show.
A bit about boning
channels. I have experimented a lot with different materials. Bias binding is
too fine, even though it will bend nicely to curves, and I have tried the ones
below: a cotton tape, a twill tape, and cotton channel tape. The cotton
channels are idea in many ways; strong enough to not let the boning rub, easy to
sew in (has neat bonded edges), plenty of room to insert boning, and can be
dyed. Except that it is quite stiff, and not easy over curves like bust
shaping.
But this is what I chose anyway, and even though I
have an aversion to pins, I used several to hold it in place and manipulate it
around the bust shape (this corset has a C cup). I like to sew the waist tape
over the channels; it could go under with this type of tape, as the tube means
boning doesn’t get stuck at the middle, but I like how this looks.
When it was time for the back lacing panel, I sewed the
center back and edge stitched, pressed it flat, and sewed a parallel seam for
the steel boning. I then sewed it the rest of the corset, securing the waist
tape. Before I stitched the last channel down, I inserted a piece of plastic (from
a plastic sleeve file) to support the eyelets.
And then I was ready to bind the edges!
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